In the world of vintage costume jewelry, few names command the respect and collector enthusiasm of Miriam Haskell.
While her contemporaries Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli dominated European markets, Haskell built an American jewelry empire that rivaled fine jewelry in craftsmanship and desirability. Her pieces graced the brightest stars in Hollywood and European royalty, transforming costume jewelry from disposable fashion into collectible art.
In this blog, we explore the woman behind vintage Miriam Haskell jewelry, what makes her jewelry so collectible, and how to authenticate genuine pieces.
The Woman Behind the Miriam Haskell Jewelry
Miriam Haskell was born on July 2, 1899, in Indiana to Russian-Jewish immigrant parents who operated a dry goods store. After attending the University of Chicago for three years in the early 1920s, Haskell left for New York City in 1924 with $500—likely a gift from her father—and an ambitious dream.
That dream materialized on July 30, 1926, when Haskell opened her first boutique, "Le Bijou de l'Heure" (Jewelry for Every Occasion), in the McAlpin Hotel in midtown Manhattan.
The shop's name reflected Haskell's revolutionary philosophy: women should own multiple pieces of jewelry to suit different occasions, rather than wearing the same pieces repeatedly. This concept, progressive for its time, helped democratize fashion jewelry and made luxury accessible.
Vintage Miriam Haskell Jewelry and Frank Hess Partnership
One of Haskell's most crucial business decisions came shortly after opening her boutique when she hired Frank Hess, a former Macy's window dresser, as her jewelry designer. Hess would become the creative force behind the company for 36 years—outlasting even Haskell herself.
While debate persists over how much of the jewelry Haskell personally designed versus Hess, one fact remains undisputed: Haskell was a brilliant businesswoman. Within a year of opening her first shop, she launched a second location on West Fifty-Seventh Street. By the 1930s, the company relocated to 392 Fifth Avenue, opened boutiques at Saks Fifth Avenue and Burdine's, and established an international presence with a London shop.
Vintage Miriam Haskell Jewelry: Signature Style
The 1920s economic boom created demand for ostentatious fashion jewelry, and Coco Chanel's promotion of "real fake jewelry" in France legitimized mixing costume pieces with fine jewelry.
Haskell capitalized on America's obsession with French fashion, creating handmade pieces from imported European glass beads and crystals that rivaled European costume jewelry in quality.
The company's enduring aesthetic centered on several distinctive elements:
Baroque Pearls: Miriam Haskell became synonymous with faux baroque pearls—irregularly shaped beads that mimicked the organic beauty of natural pearls. These appeared in necklaces, brooches, and earrings, often layered in abundance.
Filigree Backings: The iconic gold-plated filigree backing was introduced in the late 1940s. These ornate metal bases, coated in "Russian Gold"—a proprietary formula containing genuine 24-karat gold—became a hallmark of authentic Haskell pieces.
Hand-Wired Construction: Unlike mass-produced costume jewelry that relied on glue, Haskell pieces were meticulously hand-wired by skilled artisans, many of whom were European refugees trained as fine jewelers. This labor-intensive process ensured durability and allowed for complex, three-dimensional designs.
Naturalistic Motifs: While Art Deco's geometric machine aesthetic dominated the 1930s, Haskell and Hess reintroduced natural forms—flowers, leaves, and organic shapes—that resonated with consumers seeking romantic, feminine designs.
Quality Materials: The company sourced only the finest components: European glass beads, Bohemian crystals from Gablonz, Venetian glass, and Swarovski crystals from Wattens, Austria.
Vintage Miriam Haskell Jewelry in Hollywood's Golden Age
Miriam Haskell jewelry achieved iconic status through its association with Hollywood's golden age. Joan Crawford owned nearly every Haskell piece produced from the 1920s through the 1960s, building one of the most comprehensive collections of the designer's work. Lucille Ball, Marilyn Monroe, Gloria Vanderbilt, and the Duchess of Windsor all wore Haskell creations for publicity shots, films, and personal occasions.
The jewelry's popularity extended beyond Hollywood. Florenz Ziegfeld adorned his Follies chorus girls with Haskell designs, while prominent clients included department store magnate Bernard Gimbel and John D. Hertz Jr. of the car-rental empire.
Vintage Miriam Haskell Jewelry: Evolution Through Different Designers
Haskell's health began declining in the 1940s, and she sold the company to her brothers in 1950, eventually passing away in 1981 at age 82. However, the company continued under a succession of talented designers who each left their mark:
Frank Hess (1926-1960): Responsible for the classic heavily-beaded, asymmetric aesthetic that defines vintage Haskell.
Robert Clark (1958-late 1960s): An artist before joining Haskell, Clark favored three-dimensional structured pieces with symmetry, large bold beads, and innovative use of bent wires and filigrees to add height. He introduced solder alongside traditional wire construction.
Lawrence Vrba (1970s): Admired past Haskell designs while adapting to changing times. He's credited with introducing all-metal pieces and creating the highly collectible line featuring stylized designs in blues, reds, and golds.
Authenticating Miriam Haskell Vintage Jewelry
The popularity of Miriam Haskell pieces has spawned numerous reproductions and misattributed pieces, making authentication crucial for collectors.
Signature Marks and Dating
Haskell's signature evolved significantly over the decades, providing valuable dating clues:
1926-1947: Early pieces were largely unsigned, with only black and gold paper hangtags (now rarely intact). These represent the most challenging authentication cases.
1947-1950: The first permanent signature appeared—a horseshoe-shaped plaque with "Miriam Haskell" embossed. These pieces are rare, as the horseshoe mark was used irregularly.
1950-late 1970s: The signature changed to an oval plaque with "MIRIAM HASKELL" stamped in all capitals. The stamping came through to the reverse side, appearing indented and reversed. This became the most common and recognizable mark.
Late 1970s-present: Similar oval tags but with "flat back" construction—stamping no longer showing on the reverse.
Most Collectible Vintage Miriam Haskell Jewelry Pieces
While all authentic Haskell jewelry holds collector appeal, certain categories command premium prices:
Early Unsigned Pieces (1920s-1940s): Due to rarity and the skill required to authenticate them, early unmarked pieces with characteristic Haskell construction are highly prized. Experts examine materials, construction techniques, and design elements to verify authenticity.
Frank Hess Era (1926-1960): Pieces from Haskell's collaboration with Hess represent the "golden age" of the brand. The 1940s and 1950s are particularly collectible, featuring the classic heavily-beaded aesthetic with baroque pearls and intricate floral motifs.
Rare Horseshoe Mark Pieces (1947-1950): The brief use of the horseshoe signature makes these pieces especially desirable to collectors.
Lawrence Vrba (1970s): These bold, stylized pieces in blue, red, and gold represent some of Haskell's most distinctive work and command strong prices.
Complete Parures: Matching sets of necklace, bracelet, earrings, and brooch are significantly more valuable than individual pieces.
The Enduring Legacy of Vintage Miriam Haskell Jewelry
Miriam Haskell's influence on American costume jewelry cannot be overstated. She demonstrated that costume jewelry could rival fine jewelry in artistry, craftsmanship, and desirability.
Today, original vintage Miriam Haskell pieces remain among the most sought-after in costume jewelry collecting. They represent not just beautiful accessories, but tangible pieces of American fashion history—testaments to one woman's vision of making luxury accessible and proving that "fake" jewelry could achieve genuine artistry.
Vintage Costume Jewelry at Around the Block
At Around the Block in Toronto, we have an extensive collection of costume jewelry. Our current consignment inventory includes marked costume jewelry from some of the most influential names in the costume jewelry industry, including Chanel, Miriam Haskel, Trifari, Schiaparelli, and more. Drop by and discover why Around the Block is Toronto’s go-to destination for marked costume jewelry, fine jewelry, designer accessories, and more.
